Koh Hong Rediscovered By Speedboat

There we were, excited and awaiting the thrill of a speedboat trip with the local tour agency Chokpaisan. It was the owner, Khun Paisan himself, who came to pick us up for the transfer to Noppharat Thara Pier where we boarded the company boat. The day was simply stunning, the sea was like a millpond. We were greeted by a smiling Pat, our guide for the day, a tanned guy from Bangkok. The crew of this one engine boat included a young captain and an assistant…

The boat left the pier and sailed its way through the small islands near the Noppharat Thara coast before speeding along on the calm waters of the Andaman Sea. We were going fast but it didn't feel like it. The seats on the boat were comfortable, the canvas cover provided shade for the whole cabin leaving only the prow area uncovered, for those who loved sunbathing.

It took about 30 minutes to our first stop of the day, Koh Ladin. This was the original name of this island, now being rightly marketed by the Tourist Authority of Thailand as Paradise Island, for international recognition. As we got near the Koh Hong archipelago, it was marvellous to observe the giant rock formations protruding from the sea, with the Koh Yao islands as a natural background. On the Koh Ladin bay, where the boat docked, the sand was fine and had the colour of ivory. The whole U-shaped bay is lined with typical high limestone rocks called karsts. One of the advantages of making a trip by speedboat was that we arrived at our destination ahead of most of the longtail and big tourist boats. At the early hour of 10 am only a couple of boats and a dozen tourists were visiting. Some were sunbathing, while others rocked on swings that hung from the high trees that separated a limestone wall from the sea.

Snorkeling was also a popular activity as there is a variety of fish near the shore and the water is shallow. On the nature trail lined by giant trees that connects to the south facing bay, lianas drop from a height of about 40 meters, so thick they resemble tree trunks. The boatmen used some of the scattered, thatched bamboo huts along the trail for resting, smoking and chatting, patiently waiting for their next departure time. Tiger mosquitoes inhabit this shady environment, and we had to keep moving as they really enjoyed their tasty snacks. Once we reached the bay I could only stand and wonder about the time when this place was still unknown to mankind, and the impression it must have made on the first people who came across it, venturing here with rudimental boats on the endless waters of the Asian seas. The sun burned our skin mercilessly on that hot and breezy day. As we approached our next stop, Pakbia Island, we took delight in looking at the vegetation covered outcrops that emerged from the sea, so near to one another that they are connected by narrow isthmuses.

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We explored this islet where the beach covers 50% of the area and ends at a rocky place where the limestone ceiling has been carved out by thousands of years of rain. From the sand emerged some eerily-shaped thick roots belonging to ancient dead trees. In the impenetrable 5-meter-wide forest that borders the limestone wall, millions of giant red ants rode the liana motorways, cutting and transporting pieces of leaves. Huge black and blue butterflies sucked the sweet juice of the finely scented white mangroves flowers, while the gentle noise of the waves lapping on the shore soothed my soul. Thanks to the high tide at this time of day, the Koh Hong lagoon was navigable. Inside this natural amphitheatre, mangrove trees showed off their beautiful uneven roots that grow from the un-submerged part of their trunks. We circumnavigated the perimeter surrounded by towering cliffs and exited again to the open sea. The speedboat slowly followed the outer part of the island until we arrived at the main beach, where lunch was served. The bay was simply stunning. It has a long beach with a fairly wide forested area behind it and a huge stone that emerges from the water barely 10 meters from the sand

There was a kiosk selling drinks and, on the sand, kayaks and small catamarans could be hired. This was the National Park headquarters, and facilities included toilets and an information center, outside which banners, field guides and boards posted facts about marine and rainforest life. There were even blown up pictures taken after the tsunami, which claimed two dozen victims on the island, with a commemoration plaque in memory of those who lost their lives on the fatal 26th December 2004. We sat on the wooden benches with our lunch box that contained rice with a distinctively flavored pork curry, while chatting with the friendly crew and the satisfied-looking customers. Koh Hong is part of the marine area of Tarnboke Koranee National Park. Trees were in good condition and most of them had a wooden plaque with their botanical names written in both Thai and English. Behind the headquarters was the ranger's house and 4 lodgings where the people in charge of park maintenance live. The 2 km nature trail that follows the base of the limestone wall is clear and easy to follow.

A few minutes into the walk, peace prevailed, disturbed only by the few birds that sang above our heads. We walked in silence observing the enormous vertical cracks in the extremely smooth surfaced rocks, etched by water which drips constantly.

The thick undergrowth is home to acacia trees and other species unknown to me. Numerous papaya trees provide food for the local fauna and help to sustain the fragile ecosystem. In the humid air we followed the rugged red terrain path until we reached the west side of the beach. It was 2.30 pm and time to head back to Ao Nang. Several boats were preparing to leave, and so was the crew of Chokpaisan. The journey back was smooth with panoramic views. We had a final chat with Pat and thanked him for his efforts. We were happy and content to save the memories of that wonderful day as the Chokpaisan pick-up took us back to our office. I really enjoyed this trip. I saw places of astonishing beauty in the company of professional staff. These guys, with their attention to detail, have made the whole experience a memorable one.